Updated: Dec 2, 2019
Kékfrankos Reserve 2013
Swirl the globe and point your finger on a country! If you are lucky enough to pick Hungary, you have to try this nectar. It comes from Villány-Siklós, where the climate is continental with Mediterranean influence. Over there the Cabernet Franc and the more local Kékfrankos are the flagship grapes. We focus on the latter, also know as Blaufränkisch. It is a dark skinned variety, which is early budding and late ripening. It produces red wines typically rich in tannin and may exhibit pronounced spicy character (Wikipedia). This nectar does the alcoholic fermentation and the malolactic fermentation in temperature controlled steel tanks at 26-27C. It ages in Hungarian barrels (500l) for 22 month.
In the glass the wine has a ruby colour. The intensity is medium to deep. It is clear even if there are some white crystals on the surface at the first pouring. It happens, don’t scream!
The aromas intensity is medium plus, almost pronounced. You can smell black cherry, black plum, raisin, and stew fruits. It is quite pungent aroma, with hint of black pepper and liquorice. The oak ageing has done its job. There are notes of charred woods, toast, cedar, and smoke. On the tertiary aromas, there is an hint of fig, prune, dried fruits, tobacco and vegetal.
In the mouth, the wine is dry with a high level of acidity and medium plus tannins. The alcohol is high (i.e. 14%) but perfectly tamed. Both flavour intensity and finish are medium plus. On the palate, the secondary aromas are even stronger. The wine is almost bitter. The charred wood and smoke aromas are preponderant, but there is also a noble dark chocolate and coffee. The cloves aroma enriches this plethora of perfumes.
I really like this wine. Its secondary aromas are so particular and tasteful making this nectar so charming. The wine is good by itself, if you are well trained, otherwise enjoying it with a nice rear steak. The charred wood and smoke aromas will be the perfect companion for your beef. I drank it while I was eating a caponata with aubergine, and I have to admit: not the best combination. I love this wine much more now that the plate is empty. At the same price, you can buy some nice Burgundy, but don’t be defensive, dare with this pearl!