Updated: Dec 2, 2019
Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
Clos Tavannes 2011
Santenay (1er Cru), France
This nectar brings us directly to Côte de Beaune in the southern part of the Côte d’Or, and more specifically to Santenay. The village is really closed to those places where the Chardonnay achieves the myth. Puligny Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault are just few kilometres away. This Clos Tavannes is instead made with the other flagship grape of Burgundy: the Pinot Noir. At these latitudes, the red wines tend to be in a fruitier style compared to the more austere cousins from the Côte de Nuits. The tasted bottle is a magnificent example of this feature. Santé!
In the glass the wine has an amazing ruby colour. The intensity is medium to pale. It is clear with no traces of deposits.
The nose is wonderful. The aromas intensity is pronounced, but still so charming and elegant. Even without swirling, in the glass there is a blaze of violet, redcurrant, cranberry, red plum and red cherry. After the fresh fruits, there is a crescendo of baked fruits made vibrant by the notes of black pepper, eucalyptus and liquorice. You cannot stop yourself from smelling this nectar. Also the range of secondary aromas is opulent. There is a clove, vanilla, cedar, charred woods and coffee. This is a 2011 vintage, so also the tertiaries “make noise”. There is precious leather, like that one that makes the air in the most prestigious boutiques so enchanting; there is the virile aroma of tobacco, and yes, as every extraordinary Pinot Noir, also here we have the fascinating stink of poultry (or say merde de poule, if you want to look smarter). After 8 years from the harvest, this nectar is still vivacious and keeps evolving.
In the mouth, the wine is dry with a high level of acidity and medium plus tannins. The alcohol is medium (i.e. 13%). The flavour intensity is pronounced and the finish is long, almost infinite. On the palate, the red fruits become dominant and even fresher. The tertiary aromas almost disappear, while the secondary ones explode in all their own charm. The tannins are lovely astringent, inviting you to enjoy another sip, and another... until you curse yourself for not having bought another bottle.
In case you haven’t understood yet, I fall in love with this wine. It has everything you can desire. When I drink wines like this one I cannot forget Keith Floyd’s quote: “ I love the magnum bottle, it is enough for one, but not for two people!”