Updated: Mar 1
Domaine François Gaunoux
Volnay 1er Cru 2008 – Le Clos des Chênes
Yes I ought to admit: I fall easily in love with the nice labels of the Burgundies. And this bottle has a really nice one, so I bought it. It comes from the Premier Cru village of Volnay, in the middle of the Côte de Beaune, part of the Côte d’Or. Unfortunately I have no information about the wine-making techniques, except that the producer does not use oak. Santé!
In the glass the wine has a garnet colour. The intensity is pale. It is absolutely clear with no traces of deposits.
The aromas intensity is medium plus. Honestly the smell is not really inviting, there are note of oxidations more related to the vinegar than to a fine Burgundy. I check and the wine is not corked. I swirl the glass, and put my nostrils close by the glass again. Now I can sniff a feeble fragrance of dried rose and iris, then the stewed fruits come out with secondary notes of smoke and resinous. The tertiaries remember the vegetal, earth, mocha. Not really compelling to be honest.
In the mouth, the wine is dry with a high level of acidity and medium plus tannins. The alcohol is medium (i.e. 13.5%). The flavour intensity is medium plus, with notes of preserved fruits, dried flowers, a light jamminess. As secondaries, there are cloves, smoke, charred woods. The tertiaries are leather, game, tobacco, coffee, dark chocolate and forest floor. No trace of the farmyard, the typical note of this grape. The finish is medium plus.
I am a bit disappointed with this bottle. Given the price and the vintage, I was expecting much more. The nose is not actually the strength of this nectar. At the palate, it gives more satisfactions, but not sure enough to justify another purchase. Technically speaking, at least in the mouth, this Burgundy is balanced, quite complex with a nice intensity and lasting.
Final vote: 87
Price: c£40 at Whole Foods