Domaine Danielle-Etienne Defaix
Chablis Premier Cru les Lys 2003
It’s spring here in London, and to celebrate the first day of a long Easter weekend, I am going to uncork this Chablis Premier Cru. It is a 100% Chardonnay from c40 years old vineyards with south-east aspect.. The fermentation with natural yeast took place at 18 ° C for 3 weeks. Also the malolactic fermentation was completed. Then the divine juice aged for 18 months on the lees (sur lie) with monthly bâtonnage (stirring settled lees back into wine). Santé!
In the glass the wine has a gold colour. The intensity is a medium.
The aromas intensity is medium plus. There are hints of acacia, honeysuckle, and blossom. The primary aromas includes also nectarine, pineapple, citrus and green apple. A sharp note of flint gives the minerality. The 18 months spent on the lees has given fragrant flavour of bread dough, pastry. While the malolactic fermentation gives hints of cream. The long period spent in the bottle (vintage 2003) has developed notes of almond, hay and wax.
In the mouth, the wine is dry with a high level of acidity. The alcohol is medium (i.e. 13%). The flavour intensity is pronounced, with beautiful floral and fruity notes. The secondary aromas of pastry and cream are clearer. The wine texture is wonderful. The tertiaries remember the hay, nutty and feeble mushroom. The lasting is medium plus.
It is undoubtedly a good wine, but I was expecting much more complexity, and especially more developed tertiary flavours. Despite it is a 2003 vintage, the nectar is still incredibly fresh with a vivacious aromatic bouquet. Not to be prosaic, but if I had known, at this price, I would have opted for something else.
Final vote: 91
Price: £39.99 at Whole Foods