Rosso di Montalcino DOC 1993 – Tenuta Greppo
It is always nice to come back home and find a surprise, especially in your parents’ cellar. This time, I found a charming Rosso di Montalcino 1993 produced by the mythological family Biondi Santi. I can see you fucking hater, which use the decanter for your £10 Tesco Finest wine, saying: “For fuck’s sake, this is not a Brunello, why are you excited?!”. Unfortunately I cannot find details on this specific vintage, so I mention the winemaking technique used for the latest ones.
This nectar is 100 % Sangiovese, a late ripening grape characterized by high levels of acidity and tannins (also for these reasons Brunello Montalcino Riserva by Biondi Santi can last over 100 years). The grapes come from young vineyards (less than 10 years) located between 250 and 500m asl. It ages for 1 year in Slovonian oak barrels and then in the bottle for at least 4 months. I uncorked and poured it into the decanter 1h before the tasting. Salute!
In the glass the wine has a garnet colour. The intensity is medium with a quite pale rim with tawny tints. It is clear. There are sediments at the bottom of the bottle.
The aromas intensity is almost negligible. I should have uncorked earlier. After a bit of our favourite physical exercise, i.e. swirling, I can smell feeble notes of resinous, forest floor and mushroom. So I cannot identify any traces of the typical primary flavours of Sangiovese, above all the red cherry. Well when I was 26 I had already some white hair.
In the mouth, the wine is dry with a high level of acidity and medium high tannins. The alcohol is medium (i.e. 12.5%). The flavour intensity is medium and finish is medium plus. So the wine is still alive! There is a bit of sour cherry, plum, fig and again a lot of tertiaries: coffee, dark chocolate, prune, tobacco, earth and mushroom. To be honest the wine per se, it is not exhilarating. But when 1.3kg rear cooked Fassone’s T-bone steak have appeared on my plate (chopping board), the music has changed. The sharp acidity of the wine works amazingly well with the juiciness of the meat. The mouth is clean after every sip, and the not overwhelming wine aromas support perfectly the taste of the animal.
No easy to draw the conclusion. Let say that I would not pick this nectar (1993) if I wanted to just drink a glass of wine to relax. Instead I would go for it, if I had to enjoy a barbarian meaty meal. But probably to be fully honest, the savvier choice would be to keep this bottle in your cellar, give it a look now and then imaging how good it might be this Biondi Santi nectar. Bare in mind, it is not a Brunello!